Romania: from Danube to Dracula

Romania is a land of dreams, fairytales – and Dracula. Or so the legends say. Folklore runs deep here, through candlelit castles, spruce forests and the snow-capped peaks of the Piatra Craiului Mountains, among medieval Sibiu’s “houses with eyes”, and across the wildflower meadows and dense woodlands of Transylvania – the home of Dracula.

But there are new tales to be told, too. Tucked-away “garden bars”, open-air lakeside terraces, ice hotels, snow-shoe hikes, torchlit wine tastings, horse-drawn carriage rides, and subway amusement parks. Throughout this mesmerising journey, you’ll be welcomed by some of the warmest guides Romania has to offer.

Ready to embark on your own fairytale? Let’s begin.

GOTHIC CHURCHES AND GARDEN BARS IN BUCHAREST

Bucharest has style – a lot of it. The city is a fascinating (and unusual) mix of Art Deco and Nouveau hotels, monolithic Communist monuments, Gothic churches, trendy “garden bars” and romantic lakeside terraces. It’s a city with a dark past – and a bright future.

Touching down in Bucharest – Romania’s eclectic and vibrant capital – you’ll head straight to the heart of the city and your home for the night, the InterContinental Athenee Palace. Marbled colonnades and glittering chandeliers recall a time of old-world glamor; it even has its own ballroom, part of Romania’s National Heritage collection. You’ll take a seat (and a Guinness) in the legendary English Bar, where Romanian royalty, movie stars, and Securitate agents (Romania’s secret police) have met, dined, and plotted over the past century. After settling in, you’ll head out to explore the city on foot with one of our expert local guides.

Despite its turbulent history, Bucharest is transforming – and intriguing. There are remnants of the past, where belle époque villas blend with 18th-century Orthodox churches and Communist-era apartment blocks, but new life has been sown throughout the city. Popular “garden bars” serve up covrigi (hot pretzels topped with salt or poppy seeds), shots of Tuica (Romanian plum brandy), and live jazz. The Romanian Athenaeum concert hall (just a few steps away from your hotel) puts on summer festivals and stylish lakeside restaurants like Casa di David offer gourmet cuisine along the shore of Herastrau Lake. It’s here that you’ll have dinner, drinking in the view.

WILDFLOWERS AND WINE IN TRANSYLVANIA

There’s a lot to be said about Dracula, but Transylvania is not simply a setting for spectres and ghouls. We’ll take you to the familiar haunts – torchlit wine cellars and the original Casa Vlad Dracul – but we’ll take you beyond; to medieval towns, wildflower meadows, and snow-capped mountains.

Leaving Bucharest behind (for now), we’ll take you to Sibiu, a beautifully preserved medieval town (and UNESCO World Heritage site) in the renowned region of Transylvania. Exploring the historic center with your expert guide, you’ll learn about the town’s Saxon heritage and thriving coffee culture, wandering between Gothic churches and pastel-coloured buildings nicknamed “houses with eyes”, whose roofs are believed to make them look like faces with heavy-lidded eyes. We’ll then take you to the legendary Bridge of Lies (be sure to speak the truth, otherwise the iron bridge will creak, and everyone will know).

Next, we’ll take you deeper into the land (and legend) of Dracul (“the devil”). First, you’ll arrive at Bethlen Estates, a collection of beautifully restored 300-year-old residences surrounded by dense woodlands and wildflower meadows. A far cry from the haunting story of Count Dracula, here you’ll step into your very own fairytale in the breathtaking Transylvanian countryside. Owned by the descendants of the original Counts of Bethlen, here you’ll spend the next three nights sampling wine in the torchlit cellars of Count Janos’ manor house, enjoying horse-drawn carriage rides along country lanes, and snowshoe-walking through fragrant pine forests in the Harghita mountains (depending on the season, of course).

But some tales are hard to ignore. Over the next few days, we’ll take you to the citadel of Sighisoara – a town of storybook turrets, gingerbread roofs, and Casa Vlad Dracul. The birthplace of bloodthirsty Vlad Tepes, you’ll delve beneath the surface of the story of Prince of Wallachia; otherwise known as Dracula. Then, you’ll head to the small village of Malancrav. Offering a taste of traditional Transylvania, you’ll marvel at the fortified church’s bright pre-Lutheran murals before meeting Maria, a local carpet weaver who collects her dyes from nature. By her side, you’ll learn the methods (and secrets) of her craft.

The scene is set. But your story is just beginning.

DINE IN SPLENDOUR (AND A LITTLE TERROR)

It’s the people that matter. Accompanied by your expert local guide, you’ll weave your way through forested valleys, castles and mountains; meeting local cooks, castle sommeliers, and specialist hikers. You’ll hear their stories (and those they grew up with).

Your next destination is Brasov, a Transylvanian city fringed by the peaks of the Southern Carpathian Mountains. It is here that the Pied Piper of Hamelin reappeared with his retinue of stolen children. Or so the legend goes. On your arrival, your local guide will take you to the city’s most iconic sites – from the Strada Sforii (one of the narrowest streets in Europe) to the Biserica Neagră (Romania’s largest Gothic church). For lunch, you’ll dine with Marcela – a local cook – in her Saxon home. As you dine on dishes prepared with ingredients from her garden, you’ll chat all things tea-blending and embroidery (two of her favorite pastimes), gaining a unique insight into Romanian life.

Waving goodbye to Marcela, we’ll take you deeper into the Transylvanian countryside to the legendary Bran Castle. Positioned high above a forested valley, the castle seems torn from a storybook. And rightly so. This is “Dracula’s Castle”, after all. As you explore the castle’s towers, turrets, and chambers, you’ll learn about the legend of the Strigoi; troubled spirits of Romanian folklore, who, over the centuries, are believed to have haunted Transylvanian villages and their inhabitants. If you like, we’ll also arrange for an exclusive evening tour of the castle followed by a five-course dinner in Queen Marie’s Music Salon, with wine served by the castle’s sommelier. Afterwards, we’ll take you back to the Schuster Boarding House, where you’ll rest your head for the next two nights. Set in a beautifully restored Art Nouveau building, this elegant hotel’s crowning glory is a roof terrace with breathtaking panoramic views of the city and Brasov Fortress.

On your second day in Brasov, you’ll embark on a hiking adventure in the Piatra Craiului Mountains. Whether you’re an avid trekker or wish to explore the beautiful scenery at a slower pace, our specialist guide will tailor the experience entirely to you. You’ll follow trails like “La Lanturi” and reach new heights at Om Peak (2,238m, to be precise) before enjoying a gourmet picnic. Here, you’ll breathe in the spectacular views – of deep gorges, spruce forests, and jagged peaks.

ALL ROADS LEAD TO BUCHAREST

Throughout the centuries, Romania has undergone many transformations; blending rural folklore with Art Nouveau architecture and memories of a brutal Communist regime and a modern-day bohemian revival. And now, we’ll take you behind the scenes – from castles and mansions to museums and speakeasys.

Saying farewell to Transylvania, you’ll return to Bucharest. After exploring the fairytale Peles Castle along the way (the 19th-century summer residence of the Romanian royal family), you’ll stop for lunch at the restaurant Canta Cuisine. Located inside Cantacuzino Castle in Busteni, you’ll dine on seasonal dishes prepared with the freshest local ingredients before continuing your journey to Bucharest.

When you arrive, you’ll be met by your guide who will take you for a visit to the Ceausescu Mansion (once the residence of Nicolae Ceausescu, the former dictator of Romania) and the Ferestroika Museum. This “touch and feel” museum, a former private residence, offers a window into the lifestyle, diet, and stories of a communist-era family during the 1980s. For your final night, we’ll take you to The Marmorosch Hotel. Housed in what was once Bucharest’s most powerful 19th-century bank, you’ll spend the evening relaxing at its speakeasy and spa before tomorrow’s flight home.

Fairytales can be dark, and yet beautiful too. On your journey through Romania, you’ll witness this firsthand – in darkened forests and candlelit castles, in revived belle époque villas, old Communist haunts, and wildflower meadows. Beneath glittering chandeliers and fresh mountain skies, you’ll have had a taste of the real Romania. So, we can’t help but think that you’ll be back. And soon.